Troubleshooting Log For Mac
Bad logic board If replacing the DC-in board and battery doesn't fix your problem, then you need a replacement ( or ) logic board. We carry logic boards for every MacBook model. There are some variations within specific processor speeds of MacBook logic boards. For example, the 1.83 GHz Core Duo logic board has 2 options: 3-wall or 4-wall heat sink connectors. The 2 GHz Core 2 Duo logic board has 2 options: Energy Star and non-Energy Star. Be sure to read the part description to ensure you are purchasing the correct logic board for your machine.
Select your model for logic board options:,. Bad hard drive The hard drive may have been erased, corrupted, or damaged. If the hard drive has been erased, format it as HFS+ and reinstall your operating system back onto it. If it is corrupted or damaged, you need to replace ( or ) it. Failing hard drives can display intermittent data corruption prior to failing completely. They often gradually get louder and start to click.
If your hard drive is making abnormal clicking noises but still works, back up your data immediately and replace the hard drive. Any of our will work in your computer. Backlight Issues If your backlight isn't working, the may be bad. Other parts that may be bad are the display or the logic board. If your backlight fails intermittently while moving the display, the problem is with the.
Otherwise it is impossible to test for damaged parts without replacing them one by one. If you are comfortable taking apart the display assembly, replace the display inverter first, then replace the. If you are not comfortable with this, you can replace both parts at once by replacing ( or ) the display assembly (, or ). If this still doesn't solve your problem, you need a new logic board. Faulty Logic Board This is uncommon, but it does happen. The problem arises as a result of the design of the MacBook. The section of the board with the ports and the section near the fan slot are grounded via the metal shield on the lower case.
Screws in these areas complete the ground circuit for the logic board. If a logic board is tested while not in the case with these screws installed, the result can be a short in the logic board. When this happens, the trackpad, keypad, and input devices do not work. The only solution is to replace ( or ) the logic board. None of the above Nothing above matches your problem, or you've tried a solution suggested above, but it didn't help. If you lose firewire, USB, audio or ethernet, the only thing to blame is the logic board. Because there are many components of the logic board, numerous possible symptoms indicate logic board failure.
Any one of these components can fail and leave the others intact. If you lose the use of another component of your computer, such as the display, battery, or even power, and replacing the apparently non-working part didn't fix the problem, it is possible that the logic board may need to be replaced ( or ).
I have studied the disassembly routine quiet precisely and think one can do it really itself, I mean to disassembly the MacBook Pro. But there is still a open question for me left.
Logical spoken, to reassemble the hole MacBook Pro is just the reverse way how to disassemble it. Okay so far so good concerning the clips and screws, but how do I fix the 'protecting tapes' and 'sheet' on the keyboard connection etc.? Do I need a special glue?
Do I leave them of? It would be very helpful, if I can have a hint ore even some further pictures 'how the reassemble' the protecting parts 'tapes' and 'sheet'! Hello, I have a Macbook white 2.0 late 2006 model (core 2 duo), 2GB 667 MHz DDR2 SDRAM, OS X 10.4.11. Since early days it is not restarting when I choose too. Well at the beginning it used to restart from time to time, and now not at all. I am normally force shutting it by that long press hold on power button, and then I power it back up.
Troubleshooting Log For Macbook Air
Now, at these few times that it is surprisingly restarting, it's not coming up with airport on. Meaning, the signal/symbol of the airport/wifi, is not there, and it can't detect a network at all:-) So I normally shut it down again, but properly, and then up again, and when I make shore that the airport is there, and I simply continue working:-) Never checked this thing in a lab, did all different kind of test and updates, checks, repairs and tricks. It works fine for last 2 years and half (except heating and a slow cooling fan, and some slow performance from now and then, and those cracks in the the body and the battery life. Well I guess it is simply tired, really it's not a complaint:-):-):-) from time to time I am checking if if someone came across with that kind of problem, and what would be a solution, but I did not find. Well I guess i need to replace something, and i would love the self home made solution:-) I guess I also want to know if I am hurting the poor guy by force shutting it down all the time. Bueno, many thanks in advance if you take your time to answer that (even read that), cheers, long living and prosperity.
Quote from iJorge: My MacBook takes about 15 minutes until starting (asks for my user password) and if I don't make a move for 10 minutes it goes into hibernation it wont start again. I've noticed that its temperature rises above normal high enough to burn my hand. The the transformer has the same temperature behavior. Can anyone halp me? If the temp gets too high it can damage or effect the performance or even damage the other components, recently I fixed a machine where the processor had burnt out the hard drive.
Can you hear the fans inside going? If your still covered with apple care I would take it in have a tech check it out, sounds like a nasty problem. Quote from cheeryble: Hi I've noticed when I put my Macbook to sleep (I usually do this rather than shut down) it will sometimes be fully or partially run down when I open again. It seems to be switching itself on, sometimes. If I'm not mistaken this can happen with the lid open or closed. I would check the power saver settings (to do with the power being on with the lid closed etc) If you think the battery is loosing charge really quickly check for battery firmware updates, else replace the battery.
Quote from fworks: My macbook never leaves the initial boot up gray screen with the apple in the middle. Eventually a window pops up telling me to restart it. Even after a restart the same thing occurs. Has this occurred to anyone?
Any help will be greatly appreciated. Have had a similar situation, in my case it was a corrupted filesystem on the boot volume. Try to boot from CD first, if that works, boot in to single user mode (press Command + S, or only s, don't remember, during boot, a black MS-DOS like screen appears, with lots of messages) read the lasts lines, there is a command explanation to run the fsck (file system check) by hand. Only if you start it by hand, it will try to repair the file system even if it looses some data. Hope this helps. I recently replaced the LCD on a MacBook 13.3 white model. That went fine, however, I noticed that the trackpad no longer worked.
It turned out that I broke the ribbon cable accidentally. I replaced the ribbon cable that goes from the keyboard to the logic board. When I powered on after the fix, the screen flashed once and the system went to what I can only describe as to power save mode, wit the front light fading in and out.
I thought maybe I broke the inverter board somehow. I replaced it and it is still doing the same thing. Is it possible that the logic board just died on me, because I cannot figure this one out?
Late 2006 white macbook2.1 No: MA700LL/A Model No: A1181 (EMC 2121), upgraded from stock 1 gb memory to 2 gb with amazon/crucial. Worked great. Few months later, upgraded to 4 gb (undocumented support for 3-4 gb, see ) using 'bargain' komputerbay sticks (2gbX2).
System crashed repeatedly. Removed and returned system to 2 gb crucial configuration.
Lost various keys (no delete, space bar, fn, arrow, etc). Several SMC and 1 PRAM resets later and keyboard functionality returns (after ordering new keyboard top!). Upon reestablishing keyboard functionality, I swapped the 2 gb (1gbX2) with 4 gb CRUCIAL (2gbX2) and have 4 gb recognized and smoking performance on boot. Lesson learned: research the vendor (and read reviews). My daughter's mid 2007 Macbook would not restart. After researching the internet, I replaced the logic board, heat shield, and fan. It now runs fine along as the battery is out and it is plug into the mag adaptor only.
I have tried several key commands in attempt to get the macbook to accept the battery. Every time the battery is inserted the screen goes real dark to the point the graphics can barely be seen. But take the battery out and reboot the computer using only the mag AC adaptor all is well. Does this sound like something may be faulty with the logic board I purchased or has the battery gone bad? I don't have another battery to try and I don't want to waste money on a new battery if it is not the battery that is causing the problem. Please Help!!
Another reason behind the flashing question mark on startup is the IR strip wire has disconnected from the internal SATA connector. I recently repaired a macbook core 2 duo (2008) after a drop (12'). Flashing question mark, would (slowly) boot on DVD including functional video, no SATA disk visible in either Disk Utility or system report but machine would boot normally on the SATA disk when connected as an external USB drive. I followed ifixit guide to replace SATA cable/connector assuming that since I had DVD and video working fine, the problem was at the SATA connector end.
The strip wire connecting IR to internal SATA plug had been ripped out in the fall and after reconnection it all works. Your guides are great. My MacBook Pro A1286 had a GPU failure. I got a new logic board and installed it smoothly. Now the power button (not connected to the keyboard) does not do anything and the computer will only turn on when I connect the charger cord. (It turns on by itself) The computer says the battery is charged and at 100 percent. As soon as you disconnect the charger the computer shuts off immediately.
It’s almost like it sees the battery but won’t utilize its power and run itself off it. Other than this issue it runs great. The battery was brand new shortly before the GPU failed and would charge normally as well. I’ve already reset the PRAM and it actually won’t let me reset the SMC due to the power button not working.
Not sure what else to do aside from try to return the logic board and try another one. I would appreciate some insight!